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How much would it be to maintain a 1990 Porsche 911(964)?Read on.? How much would it cost a year to maintain a 1990 Porsche 911 Coupe(964) with 2 Wheel Drive, Auto-Trans.,& 100k miles on it with 7k miles being put on it every year? Also what I mean by maintain is EVERTHING!!! Oil, Brakes, Tune-Ups, Servicing (Major and Minor), Fluids Flushing and Exchanging, Trans., Engine, ETC.......... Also just how much is a rebuild on a Porsche 964 Engine and Trans. THANK YOU!!!

TECHX69 replied: "LOL, How much money do you have??? Seriously, anything with a Porsche symbol on it will have a totally bumped up price compared to other cars. My freind drove his Porsches till till the warrenties ran out. Then he sold them."

prtdvl replied: "None of this should be that expensive, provided you're prepared to get a little dirty. There are several enthusiast groups for this car and I'm sure they'd be willing to help you along. Fluid changes, tune-ups and brake pad changes shouldn't be that difficult, but when you talk about swapping out engines and trannys, you'll likely need special tools. I'd at least make sure the drivetrain is in good working order before I bought. The folks here can tell you everything you need to know: ={DB2E314C-1A1A-4DAF-8ADF-4062848CD87B}"

sirjames replied: "i had a 944 turbo. it depends exactly what you mean. if your taking the car to the dealership hold on to your ankles. its a 911 most mechanics wouldn't touch it or can't. but there are a few things you can do yourself for example. oil,air filter,plugs,lube,small stuff. warning ! if you start messing with stuff like waterpumps,timing belts,clutches,transmission,engine you better have alot of money if you screw something up. and pray your timing belt does not break on you. just my clutch was $500.00 for the part and another $400.00 for labor. please read your manual before you start tinkering."

Paul S replied: "Alot will depend on how hard the 7k per year are (I've put less than 7k on my 3.2L 911 many years, but in those cases all most all of them have been at the track which has a dramatic impact on my maintainance schedule). The other factor will be your mechanic, and his shop rate. In general, I've found dealerships are no longer familar with the air cooled cars and you are much better off seeking a third party that knows the older cars. A basic service will include your oil (13 quarts) and filter, and probably about 30 minutes of a tech's time to do that and take a quick look around to make sure everything is in order. That's going to be about $40-50 in the parts, and an equal amount for the labor. More in parts if you are using synthetic oil... for a findal total that will bring you somewhere aorund $100-150. This is a good basic guideline for pretty much most basic maintance items (brake flush will have the cost of a dot 4 fluid, and the 30+ minutes of the tech's time, etc). The more major services will not require some more parts, but will require much more time in labor (on the plus side, the 964 does not need the valves adjusted). Figure $300-500 for this. You're also dealing with a 15+ year old car and chances are you will have an occassional issue with something like the alternator or air flow meter. In my experience, whatever it is that needs that occassional attention, the part will be about $500 and the labor another $100-200. Fortunately I can also say that Porsches have been the most reliable cars I've owned and this is not that common (and it is an easy car to do alot of your own work on). As to getting into an engine and transmission rebuild... the 3.6L rebuild would probably run in the $6k range... more if you're making any upgrades at the same time. Transmission would probably be in the $3-4k range, though I'm mostly guessing as I've never dealt with a rebuild on a G50 myself. Overall, for normal day to day driving, at 7k a year, you are probably looking at a couple basic services per year, a more major service and flushes every other year, and some basic replacement every 4 years. This would average out to around $600-700 a year."

LovePinkPuffies replied: "You would be looking at roughly $600-1000/year for service, etc. A GOOD and proper transmission rebuild...are you ready? About 20K...yikes!!"

cdnewfie replied: "The best answer is to find a good local mechanic who works on Porsche. Find a local Porsche Club or try through PCA on line. When you find a reasonable and experienced mechanic, he can answer your cost question once he examines the Porsche you are intending to purchase. As was previously stated, very, very, very few parts on a Porsche sell for under $500, so even minor items that need attention can get expensive rather quickly. This is a fifteen year old car, and it is due to have some maintenance, so be prepared to pony up some serious cash for incidentals such as water pump, timing belt, alternator and other sundry items."

I own a 2000 Porsche 911. It is well maintained and my daily driver. How long will it last me? I put 15k mi a year on it and change the oil religiously. I heard these cars can last a few hundred thousand miles without any type of major overhaul (transmission, engine rebuild etc) is this true?

C7S replied: "It is the most reliable German car. It should easily last past 200,000 miles."

Tee replied: "It should last 200,000 miles like C7S says, but it also depends on how you drive it. Lots of high power pulls and very short trips will affect the longevity of the car. Also the climate and roads. If you live in a mild climate like So. Calif, then you will not see salt on the roads or sand storms."

Goofycat replied: "The October, 2008 edition of "Excellence" magazine has an article about a Porsche that has been running for 831,000 miles. Two engine rehabs and a repaint. It was a 2.2 liter 1970 911T. The owner changed the oil religiously, and paid close attention to such things as the wheel bearings, etc., that tend to show wear. The magazine is devoted solely to Porsche enthusiasts.."

Spyker replied: "A car can last forever as long as you give it regular matinence and repairs. If you don't put a lot of stress on the engine and transmission, they should last a few hundred thousand miles like you said. But every car would need some major part for the engine after that period of time. But like I said, if you are kind to the car, then the car could last as long or even longer than 300,000 miles."

My 1974 Porsche 911 failed emissions test, too much CO? How can I fix it? Suggestions? The motor was just rebuilt. Is typical for older Porsche's to fail emissions tests? How do I tell if the engine has 'seated'? It only has about 600 miles on the rebuild.

kyle replied: "Maybe your cat converter needs a change whens the last time"

LuvMy901 replied: "Has the motor "seated" yet? The #1 reason cars fail smog is spark-plugs...maybe go to NGK-Iridiums...worked very well in my 911SC Good luck!"

caveman replied: "CO is cabor monoxide. try fuel cleaner and air breather,and use the highest petrol Super from Shell works pretty good."

79 porsche 911 engine how to adjust pistons and valves? am rebuilding 3.0 cis have shimmed ,valve and piston clearance ? for 964 camshaft can i get away with adjusting valves.?

Thomas S replied: "The OEM specs are given in the 911 SC fact booklets available from the Porsche dealers. Or you can look up that info on the Porsche website under Porsche classic. Another reference book to get is the one by Wayne Dempsey (owner and author of Pelicanparts.com) and the one by Bruce Anderson. I don't understand your question about can you get away with adjusting the valves??? People have used the 964 cams but is it really meant for the CIS fuel injection application in a 3.0L versus the 3.6L engine? If you are about to undertake a rebuild of the 3.0L it will costs you around $5000 in parts and machining outsourced labor as well as $5000 in assembly labor to get a proper professional result."

what kinda porsche would you recommend? ive been thinking about investing in a 1967 porsche 911 or something similiar. either something rebuilt or i can learn how to rebuild it myself. what are the pro's and cons of a 1967 porsche, and what should i expect, and look out for? and when shopping around for one, what should i also look out for? thanks!

FlippFlopp replied: "YELLOW PORSCHE 911 TURBO!!!!!! GO TWILIGHT!"

robert d replied: "my dad had a 911 that car was so fast and drove better than a race car i would have gave any thing for one. so i got a 944 and that was the biggest pos i have ever had i dont see how thay even put the porsche name on it.so if i where you stay away from the 944 you wont like it if your looking for a real porsche"

mark m replied: "As with other cars that old, the main concern would be rust. Inspect the structure carefully. Mechanical parts are fairly easy to obtain but rust repair work can be prohibitively costly. Early Porsches were infamous for heater box problems. Examine that as well. Remember, anyone with enough money can have a new Porsche. With an older Porsche, it may also take sums of money, but it also requires patience, commitment, and passion. You almost become guardian and caretaker of an historical piece."

mrhan1 replied: "If your going for an older 911 like you mentioned; it would be better to go for a '69 (preferably a S model) with the longer wheelbase for the better weight distribution and handling."

RemembertheUtah replied: "Whatever you get, do NOT get the Tiptronic transmission. My wife just got a 2008 Boxster with it and I think it sucks. It starts in second gear all the time which makes for jerky starts. It shifts at the drop of a hat. If you want to run it manually the shift buttons are on the steering wheel. Up for up, down for down, unless you are turning the wheel and it is upside down, then down is up and up is down. Try shifting as you are turning. Not fun. When in top gear you are turning 3000 rmp at 75 mph. No over drive so you get sucky gas mileage even on the highway. Lastly, even when you are trying to use the manual shift bottons, it still shifts when it wants. I asked the dealer's repair shop if there was a way to reprogram the transmission more to my liking and they did not even know it was suppose to start in second gear. I wrote to Porsche asking about it and they referred me back to the dealer. So much for customer support. I think the Tiptronic was designed for the Edsel or Yugo because IMO it is a piece of crap. Get a manual transmission. That way you can make the car do what you want it to do. (I like my Audi TT much better and it was $15,000 less money.)"

wayne replied: "1970==1971==1972. are now the most collectable,especially 72 first 2.4,but now expensive, but make sure you dont buy rust ,and a rebuilt 911 engine done correctly will cost you $8000 to $10000 now. Then the best reliable is 1978 to 1982 ,3.0 SC, they are bullit proof.and cheaper than earlier seventies."

Ganster replied: "1977"

1974 Porsche 911 Targa? 115k miles The following two paragraphs are from an ad: "The car is in working condition and also passed inspection about two weeks ago. The outside is free of dents and only has about two little dings. There are a few rust spots (pictures will be provided upon request), but nothing out of the ordinary considering its age. The inside requires some TLC. A previous owner attempted to restore the interior, but it was never completed. We purchased it with the hopes of restoring it, but a recent move to another state and new business owners...we can't take on the project. I replaced the oil pump and all the valve seals last summer. The previous owner rebuilt the engine in 2001. The car is in working condition, however, keep in mind it is an antique." Here are pictures from the ad: Now, I have two questions: 1. How much would you pay for this car? 2. From what you can see, how much would a simple restore cost? And by a simple restore, I mean getting rid of most rust, making the interior more presentable (not necessarily perfect, just no rips/stains), making sure there are no leaks or mechanical problems, and just cleaning it.

ccgriffin1972 replied: "Well I would start by saying about 1500.00 But assuming that the rust is probably pretty bad, I would say closer to 2500.00 or more, for a complete revamp of the car, getting it ready for the road. Depending on your color, fading and how the new/old paint is. You could spend more than 8,000.00, depends on the condition."

yes_its_me replied: "The car is worth in the neighborhood of $6,000 by visual inspection and description. Since there is rust present and some work needs to be done overall just to make this into a driver, I would hold the limit at $5,000.00 Even though it is a desirable car, the maintenance and repairs can be pricey. If you intend to use this car as a daily driver the bills could get expensive. These cars are best left to experienced Porsche loyalists and technicians who have the expertise in keeping them going."

dfk911sc replied: "What you pay for the car is a personal opinion, it will depend on how much you really want it. Do an e-bay motor search for a "74 911 and see what a comperable cars are selling for. As far as things to look for; Rust is a problem for these 911s especially if they lived in northern climates that used salt on the roads. The 925/02 Sportomatic Transmission parts are becoming rare and costly, the repair of these transmissions is difficult and failure may reoccur. The 1st and second gear syncros wear easily. The cylinder head studs are a known weak point. Rear window and windshield seals leak when they get brittle. Timing chain/guides/tensioners/tensioner support shaft/idler sprokets all fail. If the guides inside the chain brakes they fall into the chain, derailing it, stopping all the valve action = major rebuild. Fuel lines tend to leak with age. Any transmission work requires the engine be removed at a shop $800-1400. Then the repairs and parts begin. Parts for older Porsche cars are expensive. Porsches also require a small fortune for special tools to do any internal engine/tranny work. Best advice: Know what you are getting into and be able to afford the worst. I've seen many folks buy an older Porsche not realizing that you can far exceed the value of the vehicle just trying to keep it on the road. If you need this for a daily driver, I think you will be disapointed. P cars are wonderful machines if you have the time and $$ to invest until it's completed."

nigelshiftright replied: "Don't even bother....this car is: a) a unibody----rust is FATAL in many cases b) not worth all that much....just save up and buy a good one. c) the "owner" rebuilding the engine is a very scary statement. Just remember, if this engine blows up, it costs $12,000 to rebuild. Do you really think the previous owner spent 12,000 bucks on it? Do you/he have any receipts? There's a golden rule for old Porsches. Buy the very best one you can afford. Never EVER buy a fixer-upper unless you want to spend about double what a ready-to-go car would cost you. So much about this ad makes no sense...it was rebuilt in 2001 and yet someone had to put in an oil pump and valve seals? Now why is that? Normally a 2.4 Porsche engine is good for 200,000 miles. Neglected Porsches are money pits. Sure if you can score it for $1,500, you can part it out for that but for god sakes don't pay too much for it and don't put a lot of money in it. The color is awful as well and will hurt value....sorry to say. You want a 70s Porsche targa? Well save up about $12,000 to $15,000 and you can find one that's ready to roll. And don't buy a 1975-77 model with the 2.7. The best early 911s are the 1978-83 SC models. These are gems and worth every penny----and---a bit of a bargain right now----AND----95% of them came with sunroofs. ALSO (phew) think twice about the targa---it squeaks and it leaks...."

Paul S replied: "There are a few additional questions you'll likely have to consider before getting to a point of just what the car is worth. If you look around at 911S models that are in the '74-'77 range you'll find a pretty wide variation, that is going to run as low as a couple thousand up to the low teens. So, as a starting point, the car is somewhere in there. Rust... there really is no such thing as minor rust on an older 911, and any repair could wind up being fairly involved and costly. What I can see in the picture isn't terrible, but experience tells me that what you are seeing is usually just a very small part of the problem. A full on restoration of the car would address this, but would also quickly cost more than the car could ever be worth (any tear down to bare metal, repair, repaint, and reassembly is going to be at least $8k, and probably more than $10k). The engine - if a potential buyer overlooks the rust, you will also need to at least be able to answer questions about the engine and what it's history is. If I recall correctly, termal reactors were not installed on all '74s as they were on the later 911S US models, but even without this, the 2.7L engine from this era has likely issues that would have only been addressed during a rebuild. The fact that the engine was rebuilt in 2001 is good... however, this will be considered mostly meaningless if certain things were not done: racewear or divilar head studs and a change to the 11 blade cooling fan would address most buyers possible long term concerns). If you can document the parts involved in the engine rebuild, and that they were the right ones to address the 2.7's traditional issues, the car is probably worth ~$5K. If not, most buyers will look at the car considering it as needing an engine rebuild which would detract from the value quite a bit."

mrNetVestor replied: "Run Forest, Run! Seriously, you are looking at a resto that will likely cost far more than the car is worth. IMO, the '74 Targa is not particularly desirable. The 2.7 alone strikes fear in most "in-the-know' enthusiasts....and it reflects in the market value. As far as refurbish costs, how about the (more than likely) need for a targa top rebuild at $1500-$2500.....just to start."

if you buy a car and plan to keep it forever which transmission last longer Manual or Automatic SL or Carrera porsche 911 carrera or benz SL 550, is it true in an automatic transmission when you change or rebuild it the car will never be the same compare to Manual transmission you just change the clutch in the car is as good as new. bear in mind if i buy either the porsche or the benz it wont be in the race track.

quik66gto replied: "Benz with the manual."

Miguel C replied: "Porsche with manual. Question you asked is true about 90% of the time. Rebuilt auto trannys just never quite feel the same, especially in low gears. Same goes for rebuilt motors, unless you have someone with tons of experience rebuilding it."

C7S replied: "Manual lasts longer. It is also cheaper to maintain and replace. And it is lighter and quicker and faster and makes the car handle better. Mercedes does not make a Manual car. And I have driven the SL55 AMG. I would choose the Porsche. The SL55 AMG was very boring to drive. The ride was too smooth and quiet to feel any speed. The Porsche is much more fun."

Ryan replied: "Carrera will last longer. To correct C7S, mercedes does have a manual transmission, but it is only used in the SLK models (small 2 door hard top convertible). Their manual transmissions aren't built to handle too much power."

80's or 2k's Porsche ? I was wondering what is a better buy for the long run? I love the look of the classic 911sc -911. But my only fear is the money i save on the purchase might be spent on a rebuild of an engine, etc. I'd appreciate some owners chiming in. Thank You..

unknown? replied: "Every one, no matter what the year, could be a good one or not. It depends on ho well the person has taken care of it over the years. Go with the model you like best or see which one is the best one you can find, as long as you like it. But have it inspected by a mechanic whom you really trust, first. Good luck"

Tee replied: "Buy the newest and best condition you can afford. Thinking that you can save a little on a cheaper one with a marginal engine is not the way to go. The average cost to rebuild a 911 engine is outrageously expensive."

Paul S replied: "These are two very different cars, each with some good points and bad points. As a general rule, it's often said to get the newest 911 you can afford... though in this case, the differences in the cars may be just as much of a defining factor as to what you want. I regularly drive an 80s 3.2L 911, and have spent alot of time at the track in friends' and students' 996s and a few 997s: 911SC and 3.2L Carrera: Great cars. Very reliable, and with a great amount of after market support. Either of these models can be expected to run for a long time before needing engine rebuilds, but these are 20+ year old cars now, and many will be showing their age. Ergonomics will feel very dated as the basic design was about 20 years old when these cars were produced! And while parts can look attractively priced when compared to newer Porsches, overall, you will still find they are reflective of the fact that these were very high end cars when they left the factory. They are very fun cars to drive, and a challenge to go fast in (but still very capable). Most likely trouble spots would be the exploding airbox and clutch in the 911SC (probably rare that you will find any of these cars that haven't had these addressed by this time), and valve guide wear in the 3.2L (more common in the G50 equipped cars of '87-89, but has been seen in all, as well as with the SC and later 3.6L models). The 3.2L Carrera's DME engine management is a nice upgrade compared to the 911SC's CIS, but an excellent condition SC would be better than a lesser condition 3.2L. 996: The '99 and early 2K models are good cars that are now available at some very attractive prices... sometimes prices that place them quite close to their older aircooled version just mentioned. There is no dount these cars are much faster (having turned a few laps driving a friend's 996, I jumped out and into my car before the end of the session, and my first impression was "I am all the way on the gas, why aren't I going anywhere?"). But... many see them as lacking the charm and character of the older cars. On the plus side, they are easier to drive, have modern features, and great performance. While they are high end cars, my experience suggests their build quality is not on par with the 993 and earlier models which had much more hand assembly and greater engineering tolerances (though still well above many other cars in these areas). If you really want an older, "classic" 911, you may find the newer car lacking in many of the characteristics you really want. Conversely, if you want a faster, more modern car, the older car could leave you very disappointed. If it is the classic car you want, then a pre-purchase inspection by a knowledgable Porsche mechanic is a must (probably good for any car, but moreso with a 20 year old car)... the money you spend here is to find out if an engine rebuild is in the near future or to find any other signs of problems. In either case, be willing to pay a premium for an excellent condition car... in the long run, cheap Porsches are far more expensive!"

sportscaradvisors replied: "I definitely recommend going with early 911s - anything 78-94 years. That's 911, 911sc, 84 to 89 carrera's and the 964. These air cooled cars are the best porsche's built in my mind (total opinion), but they retain the most character and in my opinion will also go up in value if you find an original (unmolested cosmetically or mechanically) example. Look for cars that have been garaged, under 100K miles, no smokers, original paint and original interiors. 911sc in particular are due for a rise in price soon. Most head studs on these motors crack, so be sure to check that and plan for service on that model in this area. HOWEVER, the motor overall is pretty much bullet proof on these cars. Have fun and long live the 911 Porsche - one of the best sports cars of all time. I hope that my answer is helpful."

60's 912 or early 70's 911? Miss having a classic to kick around in and have been thinking of one of the two. This would be my first porsche. Any ideas or opinions on them? Common troubles, likes, dislikes, favorite models and so forth. Not neccessarily looking for a high end collector, race car, or a garage/trailer queen. I want something me and the girl can jump in and cruise the back highways of Wisconsin in. Also, what are some of the popular/recommended upgrades and/or add-ons for these two? Engine swaps? And before it's mentioned...yes, I do know it's an old car. Things will need to be replaced/fixed/maintained. Not afraid at all. Used to overhaul engines and have well over 100 rebuilds under the belt. Fabrication isn't out of the question either. I'm leaning toward a lower $ car (not a clunker) just so I can fix it up and make it my own. I do prefer the cardboard to the recliner, lol. Sorry, dont want to offend anyone, but 914's, 928's, and 944's are out. Always wondered why the 944 and 928 were so cheap-thanks to some other answers I've read on here-I now know why. And the 914's just dont have the look I like. Remind me of those Triumph cars, not a porsche. Not going cheap bc I have to. Just dont see a point in spending a lot if I'm gonna take it apart and make it my own. Just want the low down on the 912's and early 911's (up to 73-74) Kyle-hope I have that problem some day, lol. It started with one of the first 911 turbo AWD ads I seen in a magazine. Coming around a corner with the caption "Like peanut butter to the roof of your mouth" Who doesn't want a car like that???? I'm looking at the 911/912 for a few reason. I think driving a porsche is a privledge. Not in the money aspect, but in a driver's aspect. Any true porsche fan/driver will back me on that I'm sure. I want to start at the basics, where it started. But I only have enough to take me so far back, lol. (ie-356 in my dreams). I'd be cheating myself and the porsche legacy if I just up and bought a boxster or something of the sort. Earn my stripes kind of thing. A combination of a LOVE for driving and a deep appreciation for how it used to be. Wow, lots of great comments and answers! I'll have to put this one to a vote and let you guys decide the best answer. I also found this little page, a good reference if you dont have all this memorized already, lol. >
twostories replied: "Don't shoot me down on this one, but I owned a 70' - "914" back in 81'. I had to listen to the snide remarks, like..... ooooo, nice Volkswagon, can't afford a "real" Porsche ?, etc. Let me tell you that sweetie moved, 120mph+ any time I asked! 30+ mpg, top popped off and slid right in the trunk, babes LOVED it, left notes on the windshield, and friends were constantly trying to borrow it. I toed out the back tiers a couple of degrees and bolted a 50lb. plate of steel in the trunk for stability and drove the crap out of it. I sold it in 1986 for $4,000.00.....I payed only $2,500 they are hard to find today, but worth buying 2 for parts. Fun to drive, easy to repair, maintain and cherry out."

luminous replied: "I'd recomend a '76 912E. These are not as powerful as the earlier 912 or 911, but can be modified to deliver more HP with minimal expense, though they are better-balanced than the 911, and perfect for the driving you describe. The 912E's are very reliable, durable, and are among the first galvanized / rust-resistant Porsches. The only problems with these are expense related to the fuel-injection and exhaust systems. See links below for more info on 912, 912E, tech and performance forums, classifieds, etc.:"

Kyle M replied: "If those are the cars youre looking at, i would go for the 911. The 912s just dont have the same spunk. Itll leak/burn a bit of oil, itll have its bumps and rattles, but it should be a decent car. Theyre so light and so fun to throw around. that being said, and I assume you know this, and i do know that you know what youre doing, Spending a bit more on a classic porsche saves you 5 fold down the road, at least. One in pretty good shape wont be much more than a pretty rough one, so go for the better one. Itll save you many a headache. that being said, if i were (and heck, i did) buying an older P car, i would look at a 930. Theyre just so much more fun, and so much more awesome to drive. Theyre more refined, much faster, and overall great cars. I bought an 87 4 months ago. Seriously an awesome car (and im used to my 996 GT2). Dont know what kind of budget youre looking at, but you can pick up a good example for around 22k. They also are appreciating in value. A good place to look for good examples of these are the classifieds on the porsche club of america website (local regions also)@ pca.org heres a warning though: Porsches are addictive. One day you may wake up and just say "my god, where did all of these cars come from, and where did all my money go!?""

Paul S replied: "Couple fun cars. Some very different characteristics between them too based on the engine's power, but all how much weight is sitting out over the back of the car. For alot of what you are describing, I think you might have trouble finding the right 912. Maybe not - but I've noticed in the last 5 years that most of the 912s coming up for sale tend to be fully restore or cars that have always been in Concours condition (when cars get old enough, we tend to lose most of the lesser examples, and it seems like this is now hitting the 912 market). If you find a 912, they are good cars. Fun cars too... but ultimately, they are left feeling like they are missing something compared to the 911. And what it is of course is power. Older 911s are also suffering some of the same as far as lesser examples becoming much rarer... but there are quite a few 911s around, and an early 911T might be out there (I think any of the 911E's or S's will be in generally good condition and likely demand premium pricing). Speaking of pricing, while it can be fun to fix it up on your own, I would advise one thing to keep in mind: buying a 911 in good condition is much much MUCH less expensive than fixing one up. Be very careful how much work will be required! As for engine swaps, just about any of the later air cooled engines can be put into the early 911s without too much trouble. Though the stock engines are actually pretty well matched to these cars; another option would be to upgrade some of the parts from the 911S or 911RS to improve performance of the existing engine. Some may also mention V8 swaps, but I've never seen this work out well with a 911... while it fits and can actually improve front to back weight distribution, the V configuration has a center of gravity a few inches higher than the dry sump boxer. As a result the car will not do well in corners. Though, based on everything you mention, I think you might want to consider looking at a slightly newer 911? Something like a 911SC would probably cost less than one of the earlier 911s, have a galvanized body which would make it more appropriate for your home area. They are at least a little more modern though still clearly related to the earlier cars. And they are very reliable. And I think you are more likely to find a selection of cars in good, but not great condition with this vintage ('1978-1983)."

sci replied: "Standard restorers motto- Buy the best body you can afford. Me I am a 911 kind of guy. The 912 just doesn't have the cache that a 911 has. The potential for doing "stuff" to a 911 is great! Man you can mix and match components, suspension, brakes, engines, trans from so many different 911's that it boggles the mind and there is a lot of web rosource to guide you as well as the Porsche Club N. A. I think you would be happier with the 911 long term. Things to avoid- Semi auto gearbox from the VW parts bin-they are all over the cheap 70's 911's. The sky is the limit- Ever heard of a 2.7L RS??????? Screaming and popular resto-rod kind of thing(other just call them FAKE) but FUN! ASE Auto tech Shop Owner, British Car restorer and semi-porsche-o-phile"

nigelshiftright replied: "Your best bet would be a '69-73 & 1/2 model 911, or the 1978-83 SC models. Stay away from the 75-77 with the 2.7 engine, or if you buy one, plan on installing a 3.0 engine in it as soon as possible. A 912 is just a 911 body with the old 356 4-cylinder engine in it. It looks pretty but is pretty much a dog to drive, and getting any power out of a 356 motor is a pretty expensive proposition---and a 911 will still kill you. Don't butcher an early 911 with modifications. If you must modify the car, do so respectfully, with brake or suspension upgrades. Most people think they are smarter than Porsche engineers when it comes to engine modifications, and most end up very wrong."

hagakure replied: "First of all, you've got some great answers up above; definitely take all that into consideration. If you're absolutely dead set on the era you've mentioned, I'd go 911 over 912 just because the price will be about the same, but you'll get more power. For just a few more dollars, though, you can get a 911SC, which is a relatively bullet-proof 911; a great driver. For the ultimate in "real" 911s, you have to step up to the 1987-89 Carrera, which has a much nicer clutch, chain tensioners, and EFI system than its predecessors."

Troy D replied: "Look for a 356, then a 911"

Nunoyvgvna Awi replied: "72' 911 w/ the old black and silver cookie cutter wheels. She'll test your skills, and she'll make you wet your pants. Wanted one but ended up with a 72' 914 instead. Sure they aren't that much to look at, but till you hug a freeway exit ramp at 130mph in one and feel that peanut butter, you forget how ugly they are. 914 was originally built and tested and it beat the 911. Porsche couldn't have this, so they allowed VW to put in the Bus pancake engine and other VW parts to slow it down. Stock 911 parts bolt right up to a 914, in turn one is able to create the original, the one that can beat a 911. They remind me more of the Fiat X19 over the Triumph. Buddy's brother had a 71' or 72' 911 when I was growing up, you'll enjoy her. Plus there are many catalogs and companies out there that supply every part you could ever need, even moldings, rubber gaskets, emblems, etc. So don't be afraid of not finding parts. There is a company in Georgia that does 914's only, even restores them and then sells them. If you are only use to basic American engines, it is a challenge to learn points, old fuel injection rails, etc. But fun at the same time in how simplistic it is. Once you get one, I do recomend becoming a member of the local Porsche club, they can help you thru hard times and questions."

mam replied: "just bought a new 911 in march had the 916 prior to that never had a clasic but would dearly love one but need reliability at pres go with your heart ...have happy times"

HappyNow... replied: "911...after driving it, you will not want a 912...plus the 911 is legend."

Michael / MrPORSHA / knottieWood replied: "I've owned a 1970T Targa and a 1963 T-6 356b. I would opt for the 911 over the 4 banger 912. The 912 sits kinda weird and is somewhat under powered. The 356 seems lighter and quicker than the 912. 911's are rocket fast compared to the 356 and the 912 with better cornering ability too. Do your homework, check out every inch of the car. Good luck! Michael/mrPORSHA"

i want to buy a sport car or luxury sport car however we want to call it. i like the mercedes SL 550 or? the porsche Carrera 911 4s so the question is which one is better automatic transmision or mechanical trany, bear in mind i will keep this car for life as you all know after a while there will come a point in time you gonna have to rebuild a transmision however the mechanical transmision you only have to change the clutch and that's that,,, so they say after you rebuild an automatic transmision it will not be the same car and it's the contrary for the manual transmision... i like to know if it's true or not .... and any case what is your pick between those 2 cars SL 550 or Porsche carrera 911 4s

Danny To replied: "Those cars are for girls. Get a good ol' american muscle car."

HanZ replied: "don't listen to that fag up their. those are some nice car, I definitely will take the 911 over Sl550. Also Porsche are meant to be using stick shift. You will love the turbo inside the Porsche"

larrygrrsn replied: "carrera turbo,but just get a toyota supra if your gonna spend that much.93 to 95 will kill both those cars,and mods are way cheaper.at least test drive one first and then see that u think."

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